How To Store Cleaning Rods In A M1 Garand
Cleaning your M1 Garand Barrel and Gas System
Your M1 Garand should be cleaned periodically to prevent corrosion and to ensure the proper functioning of your M1. When fouling becomes excessive the accuracy potential of the rifle will begin to degrade. Nosotros recommend cleaning every 300 rounds fired or when the burglarize is not going to be in service for more than two days.
If yous are shooting corrosive ammunition the burglarize must be cleaned immediately later shooting has been completed. For cleaning corrosive armament see the section at the end of the article.
Before beginning, verify that your M1 is unloaded by pulling the op-rod handle fully back and inspecting the chamber!
Getting Started:
Thither is almost an unlimited number of tools to choose from when cleaning your rifle. Hundreds of cleaning kits and solvents are available at your local gun stores and websites. Nosotros'll be presenting one cleaning method that we feel is the easiest to use. This method is piece of cake to use and protects the accuracy potential of your rifle.
Avoid breaking down the rifle and field stripping it unless you admittedly must practice and then. The process of disassembling the action on the rifle degrades its accuracy. For this reason, we simply field-strip our M1 Garands at almost in one case a season. During this time all the internal areas are cleaned of grease and oil and fresh lubricants are applied.
The Tools:
Our cleaning kit of choice is fabricated by OTIS. Their .xxx caliber cleaning kit is the perfect compact tool for cleaning your M1 Burglarize. Because of the pattern of the burglarize, a cable-based cleaning organization is ideal for use in the M1 burglarize.
A pull through cablevision system moves fouling from the breech to the muzzle improving cleaning efficiency. A cablevision based system is likewise much faster and convenient to utilise. Dissimilar a commodities gun the the M1 has the follower and bolt in the way which makes using a cleaning rod difficult.
The solvent that comes with the OTIS kit isn't the best in our opinion. Its ability to remove pulverization fouling is average and it has no copper removing capability. It's good to continue the tube with the kit when needed in the field. However, a quality solvent should be purchased for regular cleaning duty.
We've recently created a new gun cleaning solvent subsequently years of formulation and testing. Bore Star, our new product easily outperforms all other brands in both copper removal rates and power fouling removal. Bore Star is odor-gratuitous and works will all firearm types. When coupled with the OTIS cleaning organization this pair of products makes cleaning your M1 rifle a simple job. Exist certain to pick up a bottle of gun oil as well. A petty bottle of oil should final yous several years or more than.
Ever wearable protective gloves on your hands when working with solvents.
The last item you'll want to acquire is a good set of nylon bore brushes. Because our solvent is designed to deliquesce copper we cannot utilize statuary or brass cleaning brushes. These brushes will speedily suspension down and go out a false-colour behind. This false-color will transfer to the cleaning patch and make it wait like your barrel has copper fouling when it may not.
Our brush of choice is made by Montana ten-Treme. Their Heavy Duty Rifle bore brush should concluding you lot several years and is quite affordable.
The Process:
1If you have a gun vice or cradle, identify the M1 upright with the bolt locked back. If you don't have a cradle, lay the M1 on its side on a table or bench with the operating rod handle facing up. Go your OTIS kit out with a few patches. Install the slotted tip on ane end of the cablevision and screw in the obstruction remover on the other cease.
2The OTIS system uses a circular patch that has several slots cutting in the patch. This arrangement allows you to use a patch several times before beingness discarded. Start by sliding the slotted tip through a patch equally shown below.
threePinch the patch equally shown below and push button the folded department in the compression through the slot on the end of the slotted tip.
4At present take hold of the patch and pull it toward the end of the slotted tip locking it in place. When washed correctly your patch should await similar the image below.
5If the slotted tip isn't yet attached to the cleaning cablevision, do then at present. Apply cleaning solvent to the pocket-size stop of the patch until it'due south saturated about an inch up the patch. Slowly Slide the opposite finish of the cable into the bore and feed it through the barrel until it exits at the muzzle. It should await as shown beneath every bit the patch enters the chamber.
viWhen the patch enters the chamber, terminate pulling on the cable and rotate information technology several times clockwise. This will spin the patch in the chamber, cleaning it.
7Slowly pull the patch through the chamber until it exits the muzzle. Pull the patch off the slotted tip. Flip the patch over and insert the slotted tip into a new slot on the patch. Add boosted solvent to the patch and pull it through the barrel again.
We find that the OTIS patch is normally good for three uses before existence discarded. Each time the patch is used, flip it and insert the slotted tip into a new slot in the patch and add together solvent. OTIS states that the patch is proficient for half-dozen uses but we find that three is all you lot will go before the patch becomes also muddied for farther apply.
8After you lot have pulled ii patches (3 times per patch) through the rifle, replace the slotted tip with the nylon bore brush. Employ some solvent to the brush and pull information technology through the barrel three times. The castor is not needed subsequently this pace. Clean the brush to remove whatsoever fouling or contamination that may be left on it before putting information technology away.
Wrapping a minor 1″x1″ patch with solvent around the brush can be effective at removing stubborn carbon deposits.
9Install the slotted tip back on the cable and install a new patch. At this point, you lot may observe that the powder fouling has decreased or stopped completely and the patches are get-go to show some color. The blue on the patch is from the copper in the barrel. When the patches begin to evidence more copper color (blue) and less powder fouling, extend the time between patches. This allows the solvent fourth dimension to dissolve the copper in the barrel.
when but copper fouling remains, expect for a few minutes earlier pulling a fresh wet patch through the butt. Permit the solvent do the work here. You do not need to scrub out the fouling. The chemic process is doing the hard work for you.
10When a fresh wet patch is pulled through the barrel and no more than color is present, yous're done cleaning. Recollect that bronze tips and brushes can add some false colour to the patch and then don't misfile this with copper deposits from the barrel. At present pull a dry patch through the barrel to remove any solvent left behind.
11Finish cleaning the butt past taking a clean patch and applying some Gun Oil to the patch. Apply approximately half dozen to eight drops to the patch and pull it through the barrel several times. The Gun oil will protect the metal surface of the barrel from corrosion.
The Gas Cylinder:
The gas cylinder on the M1 Garand does not need to be cleaned subsequently every outing. The gas cylinder is stainless steel and won't rust. We recommend cleaning every 500 rounds fired or when the rifle is not going to be in service for more a calendar week. Practice not remove the gas cylinder from the barrel if possible. Doing so will hurt the accurateness potential of the rifle. The gas cylinder can be cleaned with the burglarize assembled. Y'all do not need to field strip the rifle to clean the gas cylinder.
1Using a Gas cylinder wrench or a padded vice, back up the gas cylinder, and using an appropriate tool for the type of gas plug you have, unscrew the gas plug from the gas cylinder. The plug can exist very tight.
A one/4″ socket extension fits nicely in the gas plug. This allows y'all to use a socket driver to loosen and tighten the gas plug. The older single slot type of plug will require a big standard screwdriver or the use of the combination tool.
2 With the gas plug removed, pull back the operating rod and lock the bolt open. This retracts the operating rod piston and allows us access to the inside of the gas cylinder. Take a .45 Caliber bore brush and wrap a patch around information technology. Apply solvent to the patch until saturated. Scrub the within of the gas cylinder with the brush/patch several times. Flip the patch and repeat. Go along until all the pulverization fouling has been removed.
The gas piston and the terminal one″ of the gas cylinder that is not accessible do not require frequent cleaning. These areas tin exist cleaned during the yearly maintenance cycle. The power stroke occurs in the first half-inch to an inch of the gas cylinder closest to the gas plug. During the power stroke, Gas blows past the piston and exits out the rear of the gas cylinder.
3Make clean the gas plug and the op-rod where it tracks under the front end hand-guard. The gas escaping from the gas cylinder will leave fouling on the op-rod hither and frequently on the sling. This is normal.
iv The gas cylinder tin can be left dry or a few drops of oil can be applied to the inside surface. Any excess oil or grease in the gas cylinder will be diddled out after the beginning shot. Add a few drops of gun oil to a patch and oil the inside of the gas cylinder. We find that this makes futurity cleaning easier.
v With the gas cylinder supported, torque the gas plug on to ten Ft-Lbs. A drop of oil tin can be applied to the threads of the gas plug. Friction between the threads is non what makes a bolt or gas plug tight. Bolt stretch is what applies the clamping force. In the case of the gas plug, the flange that makes contact with the gas cylinder applies the holding forcefulness. Keep the flange and the mating surface on the gas cylinder dry.
6Stop up by cleaning the bolt face, follower, and whatsoever fouling nowadays in the receiver. When finished, re-apply grease to any of the required surfaces that need it. You tin can see the grease locations by following this link. [Greasing your M1 Garand Link]
Corrosive Ammunition:
Westwardlid exactly is corrosive armament? Many shooters today have heard of corrosive ammunition but probably have never seen or shot any. The word corrosive conjures a mental epitome of acids or other evil substances that want to dissolve your rifle. Thankfully, in this example, the offending corrosive amanuensis is only table salt; Potassium Chloride.
This table salt doesn't come from the gunpowder in the armament. Rather, it comes from the primer. The salt is the effect of potassium chlorate (The priming agent) decomposing into KCL (Potassium chloride) a salt. Equally a general rule ammunition fabricated subsequently 1954 will not be corrosive. There are exceptions, of course.
So how does this salt crusade rust in my rifle? KCL by itself does non crusade rust. It'due south hygroscopic; meaning it takes up water and holds it. That water reacts with the steel(iron) producing a very pocket-sized electrical electric current that breaks the water into hydrogen and oxygen. The gratuitous oxygen goes after the iron-producing rust. The KCL adds more ions to the solution which increases the current menses and the rusting procedure.
Because the process generates oxygen, putting a coating of oil over the problem does not stop the rusting process. It may slow it slightly, but it doesn't eliminate it. The only style to forestall rust is to remove the KCL. To exercise that nosotros want to dissolve the common salt in a solution and wash it out of the rifle. The chart below shows which solvents are the most effective at dissolving KCL. The obvious winner is plain water. The hotter the amend.
Windex is often mentioned as a good cleaning agent afterward shooting corrosive ammunition. If nosotros look at the ingredients in Windex we find the following: Isopropanol,2-Butoxy ethanol,Ethylene glycol n-hexyl ether,H2o, Ammonia and other surfactants. The only ingredient with any ability to remove KCL is the water component which is the fourth ingredient in the list. The water component tin can remove KCL, only the solution as a whole is not as good equally water by itself.
Cleaning after using Corrosive Ammunition:
1Beginning the cleaning procedure the same as shown above. Clean the rifle until all the powder and copper fouling have been removed. Clean the gas cylinder as described above and place a paper towel or clean patch inside the gas cylinder past the gas port. This is to keep water from running down the gas cylinder. Practice not oil the butt or gas cylinder yet.
iiFill a minor h2o canteen with hot water. With the barrel pointing downward toward the ground with a slight angle begin to slowly pour the hot h2o into the alienation and allow it flow out of the barrel. Pour at a charge per unit such that the water contacts all surfaces inside the barrel as it runs downwardly its length.
threeEcho the water flush one boosted time with hot water. When finished exist sure to completely dry any spilled water in the receiver and run several dry out patches through the barrel and gas cylinder until all the h2o has been removed. The use of a h2o-displacing oil tin be helpful at removing any water that's in betwixt the gas cylinder and the barrel.
ivBe sure to oil all the surfaces that came in contact with the h2o. Audit the rifle after 24 hours for any signs of rust. If nowadays repeat the flushing process and oil the parts once again. Clean the bolt face well and watch for signs of rust over the adjacent calendar week.
5Wash all your cleaning brushes, slotted tips, and cables in hot water when finished to eliminate any Potassium Chloride that might be on them.
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Source: https://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-barrel-cleaning/
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